I.L. Series head build

Post by **Big Al** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:48 pm

One thing I see is that it deffinatly has a pearl essences

Post by **RustyNetwork** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 2:39 am

Not sure if Zeta posted it but I figured out via photoshop several possible RGB values for the IL head for.. Spector I think it was. Should help figure out what the actual hue of the conehead is.

YouTube · Post by **groupleaderzeta** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:31 am

Big question, How long was the rope light in the dome? I think its in the neighborhood of 20 foot with 60 lights

Post by **RustyNetwork** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:54 am

Try to measure it out maybe. Get the rough size of the cable in the head with the size of the head proportions and estimate the length in the clear dome using width of cable x height/width of head?

YouTube · Post by **groupleaderzeta** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 7:33 pm

Masters for the eye and mouth are in progress..

also this is the best pic I could get of the berry pink color

Post by **Big Al** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:15 pm

groupleaderzeta wrote:Masters for the eye and mouth are in progress..

also this is the best pic I could get of the berry pink color

I Like It!!!

Does it pearl or sparkle in person?

Post by **GoldCylon** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:56 am

Awesome work...Awesome

Post by **Red Eye** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 1:09 am

Great... just great!

Hope to have a few measurements/photos for the rope lights soon...

Post by **Red Eye** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:29 am

Here are a few more questions, if you don't mind:

Is the master of the mouth you're currently working on the piece that will go over the LED's to cover them?

If so, I think it should be a bit flatter, what do you think?

If it's going to be the piece which will house the LED's beneath the clear plastic cover, then it'll be okay...

What are your plans for the eye sockets and mouth cover anyway?

I think it would be nice to make them a bit milky, so they can double as diffusors...

YouTube · Post by **groupleaderzeta** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 7:51 am

So far the plan is, but its still in the air.

The finished mouth piece will replace the one on the head. The LEDs will be embedded in it, I did a couple experiments and with the casting purple and white diffused LEDs its close to the pics. Also, the eye will be red cast and have the LEDs embedded, I did a experiment by casting the part and drilling out for the LEDs,
Didn't turn out well. The eyes will be placed in the head from the back.

Post by **Red Eye** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:38 am

Thanks for this insight!

I bet it will look AWESOME!

YouTube · Post by **groupleaderzeta** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:13 am

I should point out, and as many will recall, I already deviated from screen used. My ears are the same both sides, cheeks are not wavy, and the eyes are slightly different. I think in terms of convention, Many will not notice the seam on the sides or waves in the cheek on the TV, but at a CON, I have experiences, in that if you do a screen accurate model, spent months building, then get to a CON and hear " that is ugly, or his skills are poor or that's not accurate". Then you spend the next 20 minutes explaining that it is accurate to the show, that the screen used has those defects. Whats even worst, you repeat it 1000 times.
Okay enough ranting

The idea I have is to vac-form a clear dome, and roto-cast the head as a different piece to leave out the seam down the sides. and the eyes and mouth goes in from back. The idea is to make the head with the tray (area that the rope lights sit on) molded in. You can get a hand inside the head from the neck to insert the eyes and mouth. Circuit board would be mounted under the tray. So far on the electronics, I will use a controller for the eyes and rope lights with adjustable speed. the mouth will use a simple electronic vox type unit to blink the LEDs to voice. Out the bottom would be a plug of 4 wires, 2 for power, and 2 for mouth LEDs.

Until something else comes up this is the plan.

Post by **Red Eye** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 11:33 am

Honestly, there's nothing to worry about at all.

I think the best explanation for the look of the original would be time and money.

They simply had to finish it with no time for error and no one would ever care about the slight imperfections, that's why most of the IL-Series Cylons were filmed in dimly lit environment. At least I think so, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Good to have a few details on the electronics... if it works just as great as your previously built eye scanner, then we can hope for one EXCELLENT IL-Series Cylon head... even better than the original!

Post by **RustyNetwork** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:43 pm

Cool, did you figure which RGB to use i think it was the 3rd one? as that can of paint you used I still think is too bright in real viewing. also check this out http://www.toplessrobot.com/2011/08/imp ... ifecta.php its a 3d printer built from legos.

Post by **Red Eye** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 1:13 pm

Thanks for sharing the link!

Have you found Wall-E on the robot puzzle picture below, by the way?

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