Tutorial - How to install your Cylon Eye scanner

[groupleaderzeta]

Edit: May 2012, re-posted pics and other edits for clarity.
Edit: Nov 2012, Added a video tutorial



Hello everyone,

This tutorial is presented solely for educational and entertainment purposes. I have endeavored to make sure that the information contained herein is accurate, but I make no guarantees-real or implied-as to the results you

[groupleaderzeta]

Making the LED holder.....



What you will need...

Diffusion material.
Blank heavy weight stencil mylar, found at Hobby Lobby.Made by PLaid, Simply Stencils - Blank, Item # 28589


Red filter plastic.
Found at Hobby Lobby, no manufacture name.


Black foamie material.
Found at Hobby Lobby.


Tools needed...
Xacto knife, White glue, Masking tape, two small disposable paint brushes, CA+ glue, Ruler.

GreatPlanes, Pro CA glue, #GPMR6008

Step 1...
Using the template below, cut the outline only of one piece of the stencil mylar. Cut one of the red filter material, and four pieces of the foamies.


Step 2...
A. Put a layer of white glue on one side of three foamies.

B. Place one foamie with the glue facing up, place the next two foamies on top with the glue facing up, place the last foamie on top.

C. Carfully place the sandwich of foamies to the backside of the eye socket, using masking tape to hold it in place. start at one end and work your way across the socket, making sure the foamies are even and held snug to the socket so they follow the curve. use masking tape every inch. Let dry.



D. Remove the holder from the eye socket. Add more glue to all edges of the holder. Let dry.

E. Lay the template on the inside of the LED holder, tape on the ends to help hold it in place. Carefully cut the slot in the foamies. Make sure you keep the knife vertical. Cut slowly and only through two at a time. After you have cut the slot, the LED holder should look like this.


F. Place the diffusion material over the outside of the holder, next place the red filter material over the diffusion material.Use small pieces of tape to hold the ends only of the diffusion and red material. Then glue with CA adhesive, only drop on top and bottom of the ends to hold the material onto the holder.

The final gluing will be when you attach the holder to the eye socket.

Test fitting to the eye socket.



Please post questions and comments here.

Groupleaderzeta

[groupleaderzeta]

Making the 32 LED bar.....

: Post Removed

Please post questions and comments here.

Groupleaderzeta

[groupleaderzeta]

Installing the LED Modules in the holder.....

:Edited for clarity



This will be tedious, so take your time. Start with the first module: we will call this #1. Turn the module until the black negitive wire is at the bottom and to the left. Place the module in the holder, making sure to push the module all the way to the left. Continue with the next module(#2), doing the same as before. Then continue with the rest of the modules(#3, #4). You may need to remove a bit extra on the ends of the slot to get a good fit. Depending on how large your LEDs are and how you put them together will decide on the exact width of the slot. Trim a little at a time and half the needed amount from both side to keep the LEDs centered in the holder. You want the LEDs to be snug not tight or loose.

Once you get the LED modules in place, use your mini glue gun to tack each modules in place.



Now take you diffusion material and red filter material and layer them over the holder on the side of the LED lens. Place the diffusion over the LEDs, then the red filter. Secure these with tape only on the ends.


Please post questions and comments here.

groupleaderzeta

[groupleaderzeta]

Mounting bar in helmet...

This will be tedious, so take your time. Start with one end, securely tape the end of the holder lining up the eye slot. Slowly work your way across the holder, using tape at each junction of a module. I found it is helpful to have the scanner running as you tape the bar in. So you can see where the LEDs are. You want them to be centered in the slot.



Start with one end: put a good drop of hot glue on the end. Hold firmly until glue cools. Next just before the next piece of tape, add another big drop of glue. Hold firmly until glue cools. Next go over the tape and add another big drop of glue. Continue this way until you get to the other end. Do the other end the same as the first. After all glue has cooled, slowly remove the tape strips. Run a good line of glue between all the drops you put on before.



Mount your controller and you're done.

Please post questions and comments here.

GroupleaderZeta

[nashslash]

Good work there, but can you actually get it on your head? i must have a fat head or something but when i done mine and fitted mine with a hyperdine unit the bridge of my nose actually touched the back of the LEDS n wires and i had to cover them? is the helmet wearable with the custom mounting LED holders? again adding less room inside the lid ?

Regards NASH (Thailand Basestar)

[groupleaderzeta]

Hello everyone,

Yes I can wear the helmet. I wear glasses too. Only problem is my ears (or cab doors), they stick out so I have to pull the outside edge out a little to get it on.

My nose is almost a inch from the visor, and I would say after the LED holder is installed I have maybe 1/2 inch. The LEDs don't touch my nose at all. In the tutorial the LED holder, as made, is about 3/8 thick, just deep enough to hold the LEDs (LEDs tip actually touch the diffusion material).

How far back is your head in the helmet?
Are you using the bridge of your nose to hold up the front?

I am adding a piece of foam to the forehead area in the helm to hold up the front. My head sits around 1/2 inch from the vary back of the helmet. With the test foam (found I needed thicker), it sits nicely and comfortable.

[Cylon-Knight]

Zeta - how long will the scanner run on the battery (lights only)? Have you tested that?

[groupleaderzeta]

Hello everyone,

Still testing, I have been running it off and on for about 5 days now, battery is still going. So If my calculations are correct, it will run at least 10 days on the same battery straight. I have planned to let it run all weekend, to check.

groupleaderzeta

[GoldCylon]

Maybe a tad late of advise to offer up with the light mount idea, but stand the bulbs up over pointing them out the eye socket. That will create more head space in the helmet.

[groupleaderzeta]

Maybe a tad late of advise to offer up with the light mount idea, but stand the bulbs up over pointing them out the eye socket. That will create more head space in the helmet.

I tried that, my LEDs was vary dim, due to the low angle lens. The LEDs I used has a viewing angle of 12 degrees. Also when I took a measurement, it only saved 2mm. Do you have any pics of the upright LEDs, perhaps you could add a section for that type of mount.

groupleaderzeta

[GoldCylon]

I haven't seen any LED up right. I thought it would save room is all.

[groupleaderzeta]

Hello everyone,

I looked around and found that the upright LED would work if you had 3mm or smaller LEDs. Does any one have good pics of the hyperdyne unit?

You wouldn't happen to have a pic of a bulb used in the screen helmet?

Also do you guys(gals) use your nose to hold up the front? To me that is vary uncomfortable.

[GoldCylon]

The bulbs are in cased on the screen used helmet, and can't be viewed well enough to get a picture.

[groupleaderzeta]

Hello everyone,

would you say this could be what they look like?


They are called Grain of Wheat
The bulb is about 3mm diameter and 6mm long - the size of a grain of wheat! and come as wire ended or with 4 inch leads. You can get them in 3,9, and 12 volt types. what was the voltage of the screen used?

groupleaderZeta